What is an Automatic Watch and How Does it Work?

The development of the automatic wristwatch marked a true milestone in watchmaking history. Given the ability of automatic watches to wind themselves independently, automatic timepieces have been celebrated for their convenience and practicality for hundreds of years.

Today, automatic watches strike an excellent balance between tradition and modernity, offering watch connoisseurs a connection to age-old fine watchmaking, whilst retaining all of the incredible innovative features of today. Read on to uncover the inner workings of automatic watches and deepen your appreciation for this incredible horological invention.

A Brief History of Automatic Watches

Pioneering Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet reportedly invented the world’s first automatic wristwatch in the 1770s. Watchmakers Hubert Sarton and Abraham-Louis Breguet continued to develop the automatic wristwatch technology throughout the 1800s, refining the functionality and precision of automatic timepieces.

Sarton, known for his expertise in watch mechanics, introduced more efficient and durable rotor systems, enhancing the winding capabilities and reducing the wear on components. Meanwhile, Breguet, a well-renowned master in watchmaking and innovation, incorporated his patented Breguet overcoil balance spring, helping to regulate the movement’s accuracy and resilience against external shocks and forces.

Self-winding watches were subsequently designed and developed by a number of other watchmakers, including Parisian watchmaker Leon Leroy in 1922 and English watchmaker John Harwood in 1923.

Notably, in a milestone development, Rolex invented the self-winding perpetual movement in 1931, revolutionising automatic watchmaking. Following on from Rolex’s success, other prominent Swiss brands such as Omega, IWC, and Jaeger LeCoultre began adopting and refining their own automatic movements, continually refining self-winding timepiece technology towards the current, modern day offering.

How Watch Movements Work

A watch movement, also known as a calibre, is the internal mechanism that powers a watch’s timekeeping functions and other features.

In a manual winding watch, the movement operates through a mechanical system powered by a coiled spring called the mainspring, which stores energy. The wearer manually winds the watch by turning the crown, which tightens the mainspring inside the watch. The winding action stores potential energy in the mainspring by coiling it tighter and, as the mainspring gradually unwinds, it releases the stored energy, powering the watch.

On the other hand, an automatic watch operates through a self-winding movement. Inside the watch is a small semi-circular rotor that is connected to the movement. When the wearer moves their wrist, the rotor spins, harnessing the energy from those movements. This energy is transferred to wind the mainspring, a coiled spring that stores energy. As the mainspring unwinds, it releases energy to drive the watch’s gear train. This, in turn, powers the watch.

How to Care for an Automatic Watch

Properly caring for an automatic watch involves a combination of regular use, proper storage, and occasional maintenance.

Wearing the watch regularly is the best way to keep it running, as the motion of the wearer’s wrist will wind the mainspring, providing the energy needed to power the movement. If the watch goes through a period of non-use, safe storage is essential; ideally, a watch winder should be used to keep the movement running.

Automatic watches are precision instruments, meaning they should not be exposed to extreme temperatures, moisture, or magnetic fields, which can affect the movement’s performance and accuracy. The watch should also be cleaned regularly with a soft, lint-free cloth to remove dirt and oils that may accumulate on the case and strap.

Finally, professionally servicing the watch every 3 to 5 years is essential to keep the timepiece performing optimally. The service will check for wear, lubricate the moving parts, and ensure the movement is functioning properly, ensuring the watch keeps ticking reliably for many years to come.

Hart Time is a bespoke luxury watch dealer based in Kent. We offer a personal service for anyone looking to buy, exchange, or sell a luxury watch in the South East and across the UK. We specialise in a number of iconic watch brands including Rolex, Tag Heuer, Omega and Breitling.